Straight to the clothes

Care notes

Caring for garments at the wash tub

Heat breaks down the stretch in woven thread and knit loops long before cloth tears. A cold wash and line drying keep the seams straight, the waistbands firm, and the cuff ribbing tight across our catalogue of 254 pieces arranged across seven sections.

Sorting the basket by cloth weight

Sort loads by the weight of the weave instead of the shade on the rack. A light placket on a summer shirt takes damage when it churns beside a heavy knit sweater in the same drum. Coarse seams rub against thin sleeves and abrade the plain weave during the spin. Group the trousers with the jackets, and set the light tops aside for their own cold wash. Check every pocket for forgotten items before loading. Fasten the buttons along the front placket so the cloth holds its square line through the entire cycle.

Fastening hardware before the wash starts

Close every zipper to the top pull before dropping a jacket or trouser into the basin. Exposed metal or plastic teeth drag across face cloth and snag adjacent knit loops as the drum turns. Turn printed garments inside out so the printed face does not scrub flat against the metal tub walls. Put any top with long neck ties, shoulder drawstrings, or thin tunnel cords inside a mesh bag. That netting keeps the cords from winding tightly around the agitator, stretching thin hems, or pulling loose from their reinforced exit holes.

Drying flat and drying on hangers

Lay wet knitwear out flat on a towel instead of hanging it from a shoulder seam. Water adds weight to the knit loops, and gravity pulls the body out of square while the hem stretches toward the floor. Outer shells and rain capes hang from wide plastic hangers to drip dry over a drain. Do not wring a water-resistant coat with your hands, because twisting wrinkles the laminate backing and cracks the internal taped seams. Keep wet garments off hot metal radiators, which scorch the surface fibers and dry the cloth unevenly.

Treating coated fabrics with care

Bleach strips the dye from the fiber core and weakens the fine synthetic filament in our lightweight trail garments. Skip the hot tumble dryer entirely. Heat leaves the stretch a little slacker each month until a cuff stops holding and a waistband stops pulling back. Avoid running a hot iron across the face of any coated windbreaker or rain jacket. Direct soleplate heat melts the water-repellent coating and leaves a permanent shiny mark across the chest. Hang the jacket in a warm room to let the wrinkles relax out naturally.

Recognizing when a garment is spent

Garments show when they reach the end of their useful working life. The cloth does not need a split seam or a torn hem to be finished. The clear test is recovery. Pull a ribbed sleeve cuff wide between your hands and let it go. If the cuff snaps back firmly against the wrist, the knit is sound. If the opening hangs wide and the cuff remains loose and ruffled, the fine elastic threads inside the yarn have relaxed completely. When a waistband stretches out and no longer snaps back, retire the piece.

  • Sort garments into the wash basket by cloth weight to keep heavy seams from abrading thin weaves.
  • Fasten all zippers to the top so the teeth do not catch and pull adjacent knit loops.
  • Turn every printed top inside out before washing to keep the print surface off the drum walls.
  • Place long ties and waist drawcords inside a mesh wash bag to stop them from tangling.
  • Lay heavy knit garments flat on a dry towel so the weight of the water does not stretch hems.

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Keeping the seams in order

Washing cold and skipping the hot dryer preserves the cut of every collar, pocket, and hem. Cloth lasts when it stays away from harsh heat and rough friction in the drum. Check the cuffs, hang the shells to dry, and the garments will hold their true line.

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